Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Linen Lesson No. 2  Study Hall Skirt in Ghost Wing & Domestic Cat

Me &  Linen again Ready for more?

I have always thought of linen in terms of it's texture- that lovely, woven, toothy quality that makes any color printed on it carry a different depth.  These linens are no different. And part of what makes that texture so pretty is the somewhat inconsistent weave thicknesses that are visible in the light. While they more textured than my quilting cottons, I would not describe them as rough.  The weave is not quite as tight as the quilting cotton, because the threads themselves are a bit thicker and more textured.

If I were going to make a really fitted garment, I might line it with something softer.  I would say that the sheerness of the linen is about the same as the quilting cotton.  Looser fitting garments (including those shown here) should be fine without lining (unless you're really tactile-specific anyway).

linen.socialite Socialite Dress in Flower Circuit & Linen Solid

If we're speaking literally on the scale, a yard of linen falls between the quilting cotton and the cotton sateen (home decor).  But in actually thickness between your fingers, it is more similar to the quilting cotton.  For that reason, I've noticed that all of the sewing settings: stitch length, needle size, tension etc. are pretty much identical to what I do when I sew with quilting cotton.

linen.multitasker  Multi Tasker Tote in Ghost Wing & Domestic Cat

Linen is well known for it's durability, so it makes a lovely choice for lighter upholstery, slipcovers, bags, pillows, curtains, and more.  I imagine this, in addition the the fabric's width and style, is why some of the retailers are listing it with the home decor goods.  Further, linen does not stretch (like, at all) so it hold's it's shape and is resistant to damage from abrasion. The lack of stretchiness to this fabric makes it SO unbelievably simple to sew with- as in you can barely tell you're on the bias when you're on the bias.  Beyond home decor, the addition of cotton in this blend is what keeps it even more versatile in your sewing projects. Which brings me to drape.... 

linen.artstudent  Art Student Tote (sans outer pockets) in Parenthetical Flight & Pressed Fields

It's important to keep in mind that drape, in my opinion, is a bit relative, depending on who is doing the describing, so take my words here as an impression and not law.  I feel that the drape of the linen is somewhat similar to quilting cotton, however after washing where quilting cotton can get a little starchier in my opinion, I think the linen gets slightly more soft and drapey.  It is never going to act like rayon or voile, but it maintains quite a bit of fluidity for a fabric that has as much texture, weight and body as this one does.

linen.all.set  All Set Kids Blouse (modified to dress length) in Ghost Wing & Pressed Fields

linen.kidinthehood  All Set Kids Jacket in Parenthetical Flight & Voile Solids

linen.allset.skirt All Set Kids Skirt in Flower Circuit & Pressed Fields

I can barely think of a limit for the performance of this fabric in my sewing. Except I would probably hesitate to make something densely gathered that would need to drop nicely like from a skirt or an elastic band... but a little gathered poof sleeve?  Yes, just fine. 

We've made quilts, clothes, home decor, embroideries, bags, and pretty much everything- and I have some upholstery and home decor plans of the nursery variety swirling around in the brain too.  There are also some new colors of Linen Solids on the way soon that look gorgeous with this collection.  I'll share some patchwork and embroidery projects soon too!



  1. I love Linen and I live in TX and for some reason, Us Texans think of it as a winter fabic. I hit it good at Goodwill the other day and bought some xxx1 dresses in natural colors that I am going to use for projects. We also think we have to starch and iron linen, but to me you lose the texture drape that way. Plus adding starch makes it HOT ! Zakka made me understand how forgiving linen is too. I add a sq in everything I make if I dont have alot on hand, love essex linen for its colors, cant wait to see your colors, look forward to it. I am making a tiny project, with cross stitch on 40 ct linen you would love.

  2. Anonymous12:42 PM

    Oh that Art Student tote is divine. I've been trying really hard not to add to my project list but...

  3. Thank you so much for this additional information about your truly beautiful new linen/cotton fabric. The photographs showing how well the various prints can compliment each other are quite inspiring, and also show us how various seams (straight and curvy) are very possible.

    I think that this new collection is quickly going to be a sell out!

    Best wishes. xo

  4. Is the fabric out yet?? Love that big butterfly print <3

    1. Yes- loaded in the shop!

      All the links under the photos take you to specific fabrics in the shop too :)


  5. Alright...bend my arm...I'll have to make a pair of linen pants for summer! I have an old pair made in college which are soft and worn from years of use and I have been meaning to replace them. What better excuse do I need to use such delicious fabric!

  6. gah! i'm loving it all and wondering which not to buy. and that is a tough decision.

  7. Ohmagawd, the Field Study in linen is AMAZING! Seriously! The Study Hall skirt! I want to go to there! Why'd you have to post this so far from payday... sigh...

  8. Tunde4:19 PM

    Beauty!!!! I really, really love that you printed your design on linen.
    Hope you can come to Texas someday. :)
    Congratulation on the new pregnancy and wish you the best birth ever.

    Best wishes,


  9. Anna, you read my mind with that Ghost Wing! I wanted to make some kind of paneled skirt from the first day you released the artwork for it! Now I simply must, must MUST!

  10. I have to admit, I wasn't so sure about the scale of this line, but WOW, I am so impressed by what you did with these fabrics. Absolutely gorgeous and unique, too! I love it!

  11. I have 5 yards of Ghost Wing (in luscious) sitting my lap right now. Oh. My. The color contrast between the mustardy background and then the coral and blue moths. You guys. Seriously.

    The first order of business is curtain panels. I can't wait for 80 inches (length)of this print on either side of my front windows.

    Question- I always line my curtains, but to be honest I kinda just pull out any neutral fabric and use that. This linen is so gorgeous though, that I want to protect the panels as much as possible.

    Suggestions for best lining options?

    1. Hi Kathryn- I like to line too, so that from the outside of the house you see a consistent color. I often just use an inexpensive muslin, bc it comes in every possible width and I like it better than bright white. This way the muslin will be absorbing most of the sun exposure and not the back of your linen.

      Also, I have found over the years that it is easiest to just join the lining to the curtain panel only at the top, and let the sides and bottom hang free of each other. This way, should you need to throw them in the wash or just dryer for a fluff up, you won't have to worry about two fabrics shrinking at different rates.

      Hope this helps! xo, AM

  12. Oh I like the separate layers idea. Thanks AM!

  13. Anonymous2:48 AM

    So love the study hall skirt must get me that pattern and looks wonderful in the linen must get me some of that linen..GO GIRL!!!
    Lyn Brisbane Australia

  14. i love the right turn bag. nice work. where can i find the pattern or tutorial?

  15. I adored quilting with your cotton, and now I am thrilled to make apparel with your linen! Thank you for making it!

  16. Anonymous8:05 AM

    So much gorgeousness. Wow - those pregnancy hormones sure are working! It's all just BEAUTIFUL. Thank you for inspiring me yet again! x

  17. Love linen, love linen, love linen. Did I mention that after your post I really love linen?

  18. Love the totes. I am so addicted to totes and these in linen are great.

  19. Anonymous9:55 PM

    When I gave this to my boyfriend, he was really surprised and tried this leather jackets at once. Perfectly fit, he also greatly commented on its style and quality. Feels quite soft, so very comfortable to wear. Details of this jacket from is nice with good stitching everywhere. It looks to be well made.

  20. We LOVE linen for it's texture as well. Super cute tote bag...side ties are a lovely touch! You always have fun and colourful posts. Thanks for sharing!!

    Sampson & Lorrie

  21. Such cute designs!! Thanks for sharing!

  22. Amazing! Dying over that first skirt!

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  24. This is cool stuff keep the good work